On the other hand, in a construction using a fiber core, instead of fully bonding the core to the outer fabric and securing it, it is attached to the interior by stitching.

There remains only a small "playful" element in it.

Rather than locking everything in place completely, each part is left with a slight amount of room to move.

Because of this, the clothes adapt to the wearer's movements and gradually become more comfortable with the body as they are worn.

This structure appears to be a small difference at first glance.

However, to accurately stitch together moving objects and create beautiful shapes, high skill and experience are required.

If you only consider efficiency, there are processes that can be streamlined.

Even so, BONCOURA uses a mohair core not only at the moment of completion, but also because they have thought about the entire period of wearing the clothes.

From two-dimensional to three-dimensional

It is said that a typical jacket is completed after going through approximately 200 steps of production.

The tailored jackets from BONCOURA involve about 400 additional steps, which is twice as many.

So why does the process have to be so much longer?

One of the major reasons for this is the repeated ironing during the sewing process.

The fabric that has just been cut is flat.

Of course, even if you just sew the flat parts together, they will still form a garment.

However, the human body is not a flat surface.

The shoulders have a slope, the chest has thickness, and the back has a rounded shape.
The arm is not even extending straight down from the side of the body.

To create clothing that wraps around the body, it is necessary to give the fabric itself a three-dimensional effect.

An iron is not simply a tool for stretching wrinkles.

While adding heat and steam, stretch, shrink, and round out the dough.

Sewing.
Put the iron in.
And then I sew it again.
And then reshape it again.

Through this repetition, each individual part gradually transforms from a flat surface into a three-dimensional shape.

The difference that is created with one iron is by no means significant.

However, by stacking those small differences on top of each other and combining them further, the final result can be a significant difference.

Even if it’s difficult to understand just from seeing the finished garment, when you put it on you’ll clearly feel the difference.

The fact that there are many processes doesn't necessarily mean that they are valuable.

The reason BONCOURA requires approximately 400 processes is not because it wants to complicate the appearance or boast of the effort required.

This is to transform flat fabric into a three-dimensional form that functions on the body.

Even as the assembly progresses, we continue to adjust it while checking the dimensions and the balance between the left and right sides.

And the flat parts gradually take on shoulders, breasts, and sleeves.

Even at this stage, when it is not yet complete, the clothes are already starting to take shape.

A line flowing from the shoulders to the chest.
The collar is flipped back.
The angle at which the sleeves fall off.

They do not suddenly appear at the end.

It is formed by the accumulation of all previous processes, from cutting the fabric to pinning the seams and sewing and ironing.

Even as the tailoring process approaches its final stages, the hand-crafted work continues.

Buttons are also an important element that determines the expression of that particular garment.

Instead of deciding on a uniform material and design for every piece of clothing, I choose the material and texture of the fabric based on the look of the jacket or coat.

And each button is attached by hand by a craftsman.

A structure designed to last for a long time

What BONCOURA is thinking about is not just a new condition.

It’s about creating clothes that you can wear for 10 or 20 years.

In a structure that uses adhesives to firmly fix large surfaces, if the load is concentrated on a single part over a long period of time, it can cause significant damage to the outer fabric and the internal structure itself.

At BONCOURA, we build clothes through sewing while leaving in place the playfulness necessary within them.

And in places where loads are concentrated, we design the garment with the idea that the seams will take over the role before damaging the outer fabric itself.

If the thread breaks, it can be re-sewn.

However, if the fabric itself is severely damaged, it becomes difficult to restore it to its original condition.

Rather than aiming for durability alone, we create products that can be worn for a long time, assuming that eventually you will need to take action when it comes to maintenance.

The "one-of-a-kind" that BONCOURA envisions is exactly that kind of clothing.